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Minneapolis is a bit of a dark horse. I first visited when I was young, when my grandmother took me on a road trip to see The Phantom of the Opera there. I didn’t return with earnest interest as a traveler until six or seven years ago, when I accompanied my friend to an invitational art and craft market at the Walker Art Center.
We did that a couple of summers in a row and stayed at a funky yet dated “design hotel,” which was cool the first time because we got complimentary sidecars upon checkin, but the novelty had worn off by the second stay. In any case, we grabbed some drinks, mostly worked, and then headed home across the vast agricultural plain of central Wisconsin. It wasn’t until a couple of trips later, which I happened to take with my mom, that I really began to understand why Minneapolis keeps calling me back.
The Twin Cities has a metro population of around 3.7 million, so it’s not small. As a Midwest trucking hub, the Interstate system can get real, and all of the area’s highway interchanges can be a little tricky at rush hour when you don’t know the lay of the land. I’ve only ever stayed in Minneapolis, but there are plenty of things to do in St. Paul, too. On my last trip, I enjoyed a wonderful herbed gnocchi with duck confit and a tiny Swedish waffle at a small yet mighty restaurant called Myriel, which won the 2025 James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Midwest. It truly was excellent.
Another spot I absolutely love for lunch is Owamni, located adjacent to the Mississippi River. A waterway sacred to the Dakota people and named for St. Anthony’s Falls in the Dakota language, Owámniyomni, its food is somehow even better with an understanding of the restaurant’s location.
The first time I tasted Chef Sean Sherman’s food was during the inaugural convening of the now-defunct Common Field at the also now-defunct Soap Factory in 2017. Sherman’s roving food truck, Tatanka Truck, served up maize biscuits with local berries, and shredded bison—all ingredients that have been historically cultivated or foraged by Indigenous communities in Minnesota and the Dakotas. It was mindblowing to me at the time—I’d never even heard of all of the types of berries, and I wish I could remember some of them now. (Incidentally, I’m reading Robin Wall Kimmerer’s The Serviceberry right now, and this feels even more connected.)
The Twin Cities are a foodie’s paradise, and I will revel in it all day long, but art is the other reason I go. Minneapolis is home to contemporary art gallery Hair+Nails. It’s also the headquarters of Arts Midwest, which I hook up with occasionally to write stories for their news desk. I also always check to see what’s on at the Walker Art Center, where over the years it’s been a thrill to see the work of artists like Pacita Abad, Kahlil Robert Irving, Dyani White Hawk, and so many more.
On my most recent trip, I visited the Minneapolis Institute of Art for the first time since I was 18 or 19 years old, when I had popped through during a break from an art school portfolio presentation day. (I wonder what my life would have been like if I had decided to attend MCAD….) I don’t remember what I saw then—I was probably pretty preoccupied—but this time, I found myself particularly awed by the Native Modern exhibition of colored pencil triptychs by Mary Sully, a series of dreamy mezzotints by Yōzō Hamaguchi, and the museum’s amazing collection of Chinese art and artifacts.
The architecture in the Twin Cities is a bit of an unsung wonder, too. Chicago seems to get all the glory for its Art Deco-era buildings and modernist skyscrapers, but on a smaller scale, Minneapolis has its fair share of beautiful examples. It also has a unique network of skyways that connect buildings downtown, as winters can get harsh, so the elevated walkways provide shelter from the elements. Personally, I’m a monster when it comes to finding Art Deco anything, and some of my ultimate favorites in town are the Westin Hotel’s restaurant in the former Farmers and Mechanics Savings Bank, Foshay Tower, Midtown Exchange, Rand Tower, the Washburn Park Water Tower, and the former Northwestern Bell Telephone Building—among others. I’m also an enthusiast of retro signage, and there’s no shortage of amazing vintage neon around town, especially those that point to the area’s riverside grain mill heritage, like the glowing landmarks of Gold Medal Flour and Pillsbury’s Flour Mill.
Below, I’ve rounded up my favorite spots, eats, and cultural treats.
Where to stay:
Hotel Ivy — great food at its bars and restaurants and luxurious rooms with a lightly French feel
Emery — in an old bank in downtown Minneapolis, the lobby is a delight, complete with Spyhouse Coffee
Canopy by Hilton – lofty rooms in a converted historic mill
Where to eat and drink:
Myriel — Upscale dining in St. Paul with a James Beard Award-winning chef. Highly recommend the walleye if it’s available on this restaurant’s seasonally changing menu.
Baba’s — Counter service in Minneapolis for an easy sit-down or takeaway option, Baba’s serves up Palestinian-inspired dishes with loads of hummus and fun little pita breads perfect for dipping.
Stock & Bond — Until 2025, this was home to the downtown Minneapolis Westin hotel’s restaurant called Bank, redeveloped into a steakhouse concept by the same folks who do the food at Hotel Ivy, in an astonishingly beautiful Art Deco building of the former Farmers and Mechanics Savings Bank. This spot is all about the architecture.
Al’s Breakfast — A Dinkytown fixture, this tiny diner can seat maybe 12 people at its tiny breakfast bar. Queues can be impressive, but it’s a classic for a reason.
Owamni — Located on the Mississippi River, Chef Sean Sherman serves up artful dishes using only ingredients native to the Upper Midwest or historically ingrained in Native food systems.
Volstead’s Emporium — Minneapolis is known for its speakeasies. This is one is a well-known favorite. Also check out Char Bar or the themed Prohibition Bar on the 27th floor of the Foshay building.
Diane’s Place — Upscale Hmong-American cuisine by Chef Diane Moua, named Food & Wine’s 2025 Restaurant of the Year. ✤
All images © Kate Mothes.